May 062006
 

I worked on the second coat of primer today. (I sanded the first coat yesterday). This was a second can, and I have to say how nice this primer was to work with. It felt much smoother than and not as thick as the first can. I thing I might have gotten a bum can of primer or something. I should mention is that I had the Home Depot add a black pigment to the primer. I would have liked the primer to be even darker, but they said that this was as dark as they could take it without goofing up the make up of the paint.

Tonight I started zeroing in on the art. I had originally used the program CP Designer to make the layout as it had all the buttons, joysticks, and trackball to scale in the software. I then took that and made the original artwork in Photoshop. After all my drilling and shaping, I had a real life, full scale, physical thing to work with and visualize with. So my layout changed a little. Tonight, I made my Photoshop file match the physical panel. I am not sure if my original design will work how I imagined it. I am still tinkering with it though. One thing I am sure of is that I am going to be using this color scheme. But most likely, It will stay close.

So, below is my updated art and a second one with the stuff on it.

May 012006
 

Ok well I have now started into the paint stage of the game. Wow, what a long strange trip its been. I have decided to use both spray paint and rolled paint on the cab. The only thing is that you can not use standard latex paint with spray paint as the oil and latex will argue. I decided to use oil all the way around. As I understand it, it will give a smoother and stronger finish. The other plus is that I can safely spray paint over the top of the rolled stuff. I found the same flavor spray paint as the oil I intend to use so it should all match up nicely. The Primer is Kils, and the spray is Rust-o-lium Satin Black.

I did the CP top with completely with spray as it would eventually be covered up anyway. I am really just painting it in case any edges ever show through. I sprayed a couple layers of primer, then sanded with 300 grit sand paper. Once I got it nice and smooth, I sprayed it with black matte. I also sanded it between coats here as well. This was way overkill for something that no one would see, but I would know.
I sprayed the CP outside and did notice that there were a few flecks of dust afterwards. Not a major thing as it would be covered, but I do not want this on the cabinet. Being that I live in Georgia (the pollen capitol of the world, and Canada), I decided to make a makeshift paint booth. This way I can keep sawdust and pollen out (sort of) and paint fumes in (sort of). Seemed like a good idea and seems to be working (sort of).

I wanted to see what the difference would be with spray vs. foam roller. I have read that using a foam roller will give a smoother finish than a standard nappy roller. Frankly I am a little concerned that the rolled paint will not be as smooth as a sprayed surface. More, I am worried that you will see roller marks. I poured a good portion of primer into my pan and started rolling the cabinet sides. Two things that struck me were how thick, and not smooth the primer was. I am going to finish the first layer of prime then sand. I am hoping that this is a primer thing and the paint will go on smoother.

Apr 242006
 


I got to work on the CP top yesterday. This is, in my opinion one of the most critical parts of the build. This is the interface between the user and the machine. So, it has to be comfortable and usable. Earlier on, I mentioned some of the ideas I was having. I have settled on a design and am feeling really good about it. So, it is time to transfer the idea from the paper (and my head) to wood. After tons of measuring, drawing, realizing that there is 3/4 in. of MDF where the track ball was supposed to be, erasing, and redrawing, I finally was able to start routing. I started with the area for the trackball. The trackball is held to the CP with a metal plate. The plate has 8 screws that are welded to it. 4 of the screws are for mounting the plate to the CP, and the other 4 are to hold the TB to the mounting plate.  What is great about this, is that you do not need to loosen any screws from the top of the CP to get access to the trackball if maintenance is needed. I will have a laminate CP overlay as well as plexi over the top of that, which is held in place by all the push buttons, which would all be wired, so clearly I can not take the whole CP apart just to get the trackball out. This trackball with top plate design was ideal. The plate is mounted on top, so the screws hang down through the CP. I drilled some holes for the screws and the TB screw sockets to make sure that when it was in place, and I traced it, it would always line up. I then routed out where the TB plate would sit. I only went down just a hair more than 1/8 in. so it would sit flush with the surface. Then I started on routing the areas for the joysticks. This was all going very smoothly.

But then, for what ever reason (read ADD) I lost my mind while routing and went a little over a half inch out of the line on the player 2 Joystick. I just sat there in awe of this heap of sawdust and a huge groove that ought not be there. So, I finished routing the space that should have been routed. I then did player one JS socket (without the extra slot). Again I tried to fix the issue with wood filler. I have to say that the more I work with this stuff, the more I dislike it. It always shrinks up and takes a few applications. But worse is that sometimes it pulls away from the sides. After an hour of drying and shrinking, I got a screwdriver and broke it (the wood filler) out of the evil groove. Having recently been introduced to Bondo while restoring my Centipede, I decided that I would start to use this as my go to filler. I put a piece of wood next to the groove so the whole thing would act as a mold, then I filled the hole. Within about 15 minutes it was hardened, sanded, and good to go. Tonight I will be drilling button Holes.

 

 

Apr 222006
 

I am now starting to work on the marquee and trying to come up with a name for this thing. A long time back I initially a design that I was working with. Once I designed my CP graphics, everything changed because the CP really set the tone me. So I am ditching the original marquee design (plus I no longer want to go with the MAME name) not that there is anything wrong with it, just not what I want. I really like Flashback but it has been used in a variety of flavors. But I do like it. I do not want anything that says cade or rama or anything like that.

(AT) Building one of these completely from scratch using only my own plans is an interesting ordeal. I want everything to be original in art, and design. It is a constant puzzle as to how you will solve the next part and trying to for see any future pitfalls before they happen. One thing I remember is how tired I was all the time. In addition to staying up late all the time to work on this, I was always thinking about it. There were so many things to think about too. There was of course the wood working and construction side of things, but there was also weight management, heat management, art design, paint design, computer design, electrical design, sound design, cable management, emulator front end design. I did not write the front end, but I used the front end to the fullest in combination with my own graphics, sound, and animation.

Apr 202006
 

I finally got moving on my speaker board. To help get it in to place, I cut the piece to be a tight fit. I can’t take credit for the exactness of the cut, it just happened that way. I catch a break now and then. I used my rubber mallet to pound it into place and angle. Once I got it where I wanted it, I then glued some blocks behind the speaker board to the cab body. These will be the anchor points for the speaker board. I put tape along the space where the blocks and speaker board would be touching as I did not want to glue the speaker board in permanently in place. I marked where the blocks met the board and then put some right angle brackets in place so that the speaker board would always land at the same spot. Then I trimmed off some of the wood on the speaker boards so that I could get the speaker board in and out more easily now that the attachment blocks were in. I then screwed the speaker board to the wood blocks. Clear as mud?

I also put up the marquee light board. I used 2 small pieces of wood and glued them to the cab body. Once they were dry, I screwed the marquee light board to it.

Being that there are to be electronics in this area, I did not want anything to be permanently held in place with glue. I wanted to have access to the speakers, speaker lights, marquee lights, or anything else that might get tossed in over time. So everything in this area was built with the idea of using screws for final placement.

Apr 202006
 

I then went after one of the parts that I have been dreading for quite some time. The bezel set up. The bezel is an important piece as it hides all the guts from the player. It also masks off any stray light that might come off the monitor, into the cab, or the opposite, light from the internal electronics that might leak out. This process actually went much easier than I thought that it would. Either I am getting better at this stuff or God happened to give his blessing that day.

I cut the two pieces that would support the bezel. I used the monitor brace as a guide. I cut 2 boards to the height above the monitor that I thought that the bezel should be and set them on top of the brace. I then used those 2 boards to hold the bezel rails in place. I glued them in. After it had dried, eagerly put the bezel and glass in to see how it would look. The board was too low. So, I cut some very thin strips of mdf (somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8) thick. I glued them to the current bezel rails. Still to low. So I added another set of strips and this time it was right. Whoopee!. I had to figure out how to keep the bezel and glass from slipping out. So I used another piece of angled aluminum. I cut a piece of wood that would span the inside of the cabinet. I secured it to the walls with angle brackets. With the bezel and glass in place, I screwed the aluminum piece to the cross piece.

Now I am working on the CP. So many crucial choices. Crap, what is a guy supposed to do?!?
In the background I have been working on the computer. I have a fresh load of Win XP on it and have loaded MAME and all the important little things we need to make a cab go. I had some struggles with the Arcade VGA graphics card.This was a 3 week nightmare to get set up. It finally took a call to Andy (creator of the card). It was 12 am in the UK. Completely not the voice I expected from him. Cool guy though. We had to force windows to load the drivers. It was rejecting them every way I tried. We thought it was a bad board initially. After we fought with it for a while we got it going. Thanks again Andy if you are reading this.

BTW here is my test bench for my cab and monitor. I figured that the air hockey table was as good of place as any.